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The exact whereabouts of all these is a matter of doubt.All of them were found in Egypt and exported by Cairo dealer Hannah, who offered them in Switzerland in 1983 for the staggering figure of m, and in 1984 imported them to the USA.For every Japanese bamboo basket he collected, for each children’s book he bought, for every ornate Chinese hand mirror he acquired, there was a bar of soap to thank.Lloyd Cotsen — aspiring archaeologist and insatiable collector — found his future, and eventually his fortune, in an amber-colored beauty bar that seemed imbued with a medicinal aura.His recent publication, Chinese Silks (co-edited with Dieter Kuhn, Yale Univ. Cotsen helped build the company into a worldwide brand. Cotsen used some of the money to expand his lifelong penchant for collecting.And for pennies, he sold Neutrogena to upscale hotels where guests might come to regard it as a high-end beauty product.The strategy turned Neutrogena into a worldwide brand and Cotsen into a multimillionaire and a generous Los Angeles philanthropist.

The textiles selected for study range from the Warring States period (450 – 221 BCE) to Tang Dynasty (618 – 907 CE), with a few additional examples from Central Asia.

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Without a Fortune 500 marketing budget, he hit upon a creative strategy.

He persuaded dermatologists to give the soap to their patients, giving the product a stamp of medical approval.

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